1 day

Karatu Highlands: Coffee, Caves & Iraqw Country

The green town everyone drives through on the way to the crater

Budget€55
Luxury€205

Per person, land only. Park fees included where noted.

Morning: Karatu sits at about 1,500 metres on the eastern shoulder of the Ngorongoro highlands, and the soil is deep volcanic ash off the crater. Rainfall is reliable. The result is farmland that looks more like the Kenyan highlands than the dry plains an hour behind you, and coffee that is a genuinely different crop from what grows on Kilimanjaro.

We walk a working estate with the people who farm it. Cherries ripen slower at this altitude, which concentrates the sugars — that is the whole reason highland Arabica commands what it does. You see the full process and you drink what comes out the other end.

Midday: The elephant caves, in the forest on the Ngorongoro side of town. These were not built by anybody. Elephants dug them over generations with their tusks, gouging into rock that carries salt and minerals they cannot get elsewhere. Some run several metres into the hillside, and the tusk grooves are scored into the walls where you can put your hand on them.

Whether elephants are there when you are is genuine luck — they come mostly at night and we will not pretend otherwise. A ranger walks with you because this is buffalo country.

Afternoon: Iraqw country. The Iraqw are Cushitic-speaking, unrelated to the Bantu-speaking majority around them, and probably arrived from the north many centuries ago. Their traditional tembe houses were built into hillsides and roofed at ground level, with livestock stabled inside — defensive architecture, built to be invisible from a distance during the Maasai raiding period. Same instinct as the Chagga caves at Marangu, a different solution.

We finish at Karatu market, which is a working highland produce market and not a curio stop.

Where this fits: Karatu is the last town before Ngorongoro Gate. This is the ideal afternoon before a crater descent, or the recovery day after one, at a fraction of a park day.