1 day

Mto wa Mbu Full Day: Balaa Hill, Farms & Workshops

Climb the Rift wall, then eat your way through 120 cultures

Budget€58
Luxury€205

Per person, land only. Park fees included where noted.

Morning: Mto wa Mbu means river of mosquitoes, which is honest advertising and slightly unfair. What the town actually is: the one place in Tanzania where people from more than 120 tribal groups farm the same few square kilometres, because irrigation water arrives here off the Rift escarpment and that brought everybody.

We start with the climb. Balaa Hill takes you up the Rift Valley wall itself — three to four hours at a steady pace, through scrub and past baobabs estimated at around 2,000 years old. From the top the whole valley floor opens: Lake Manyara flat and pale below, the town in its green strip of irrigation, and the Maasai Steppe running east until it stops being visible rather than stops existing.

Midday: Down into the farms. There are 32 varieties of banana grown here — cooking bananas, sweet ones, beer ones — and someone will cut open three of them so you understand the difference. The irrigation channels that make all of it possible are gravity-fed off the escarpment streams and maintained by the households that use them.

Lunch is where the diversity actually shows. The cooks come from several regions, so the spread does too.

Afternoon: The workshops. Makonde carvers work ebony by hand here — the community originally came from the far south of Tanzania and settled on this route. Then the Tinga Tinga studio, where the bright enamel painting style that started near Dar es Salaam is taught and sold; you can sit down and paint one yourself, and beginners are expected.

Honest note: several stops involve craftspeople who make their living from sales. Nobody will pressure you, but bring some cash if you would like to buy — it goes straight to the maker.